The Gelato of Madeira

A perfect scoop of gelato requires only a few things to make it memorable. Each of the flavours should be of their purest form, with chocolate tasting like the one you first tried in childhood and strawberry capturing a sense of summer, picking only the reddest and ripest. Gelato, importantly, is not ice-cream. Created with different ingredients and made with different methods, gelato is made with more milk and less cream, which is then churned slowly so that less air is whipped into the mix, leaving each batch with a silkier texture.

The gelato we all think of and attribute to long days of Italian summers is often linked to Medici family of Florence in the 16th century, who are said to have brought gelato into European aristocracy's lavish meals. Around 400 years later, just north from Florence up the Ligurian coastline, the Gelateria San Giorgio was founded in the Piazzetta in Portofino. After celebrating 100 years in Portofino situated next door to Splendido Mare, its second outpost has opened at Reid’s Palace in Madeira.

All the elements of a perfect scoop were studied by José Diogo Costa, the Creative Executive Chef at Reid’s Palace. There was no desire to recreate the full experience of Portofino and instead he wanted to capture all the things that make Madeira – the place he was born and recently returned to live – so extraordinary. To achieve this, sourcing minimal ingredients of the highest quality were the two non-negotiables needed to start making great gelato.

One of the most distinct features of this Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic is its diverse array of four unique microclimates that range from temperate sunshine on the south coast to cooler lush landscapes on the north side of the island. Because of this, Madeira is an island that Chef Costa says is ‘a chef’s paradise’. They source all the milk locally and pasteurise it themselves in the gelateria, while the fruit for each of the flavours is grown on the island.

The Fajã dos Padres farm on the island’s south coast has been inhabited and cultivated since the 15th century and grows mangoes, avocados, bananas, passionfruit and more, which all make their way into tubs of gelato. “Obviously we have to have all of the classics on the menu of Madeira’s Gelateria San Giorgio like vanilla, chocolate and tiramisu. But because we’re so lucky to be in a place with such an abundance of tropical fruit, we have to use those.” Working with Fajã dos Padres, Chef Costa and the team at Gelateria San Giorgio at Reid’s Palace use gluts of fruit that might otherwise go to waste to inspire new flavours that may become daily specials depending on what crop might go to waste.

“We try to play around with flavours, but at the heart of it all is capturing the taste of Madeira and reflecting the culinary culture here” says Chef Costa. “We’ve turned the island’s signature cocktail, Nikita – a blend of local lager, white wine, vanilla ice cream and fresh pineapple – into a gelato flavour for example. We want to bring our guests new tastes they might not have tried, like Amarguinha, a Portuguese almond liqueur, or fresh cheese and pumpkin that’s inspired by a sweet/savoury paring made with pumpkin jam.”

Whatever flavour you choose, there’s no wrong choice. But as you take your scoop away and enjoy it in the Madeiran sunshine, you’ll be tasting the ingredients that make this island such an iconic culinary destination.

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