Three Chefs on the Meaning of Modern British Food

PH: “I’m Phil Howard, I was born and spent my early childhood years in Johannesburg but lived in the UK for most of my life. Being a Chef was not something I had planned, as I went to Uni to study biochemistry, but it was here I discovered I had a genuine and innate love for cooking. Biochemistry plays a pivotal role in food science, so perhaps I knew it was a means to the end my soul was looking for! I’ve been lucky enough to work with some of the most talented chefs on this earth, many of whom have become great friends – it’s a calling and a passion, in equal measures, so the idea of hanging up my apron is one I’m not even entertaining!”

PH: “Modern British food is best represented through seasonal dishes cooked in Britain, using mostly British ingredients, but likely using a variety of techniques from a variety of cuisines.”

PH: “I think the saddle of lamb. It’s a stunning cut of meat from the new seasons spring lamb. This is lamb at its absolute best – delicate, tender, sweet and flavourful meat. I will be serving it roasted pink with a silky–smooth purée of garlic and a sauce infused with rosemary.”

AK: “When I first arrived in the UK, I had preconceived notions about how Indian food should be cooked. However, the UK taught me that seasonality varies across the globe. During a trip to America, a chef introduced me to New York-Italian cooking. I walked away smiling and thought, 'This is what I’m doing.' I realised I wasn't just cooking Indian food; I was creating British Indian cuisine. My menus on the British Pullman will reflect this philosophy. Growing up in India, I have fond childhood memories of traveling long distances by train, and I hope to relive those experiences through my time on the British Pullman.”

AK: “To me, it’s all about celebrating the rich diversity of ingredients and culinary traditions that have shaped British cuisine, while infusing it with contemporary techniques and Indian flavours. It’s about embracing the best local, sustainable produce and combining it with global influences to create something innovative and exciting. It’s not just about honouring traditional dishes but reimagining them, keeping them rooted in the British palate, adding a fresh perspective.”

AK: “One of the standout dishes is my Chicken Tikka Pie, which is a real hit at my restaurant Kanishka. It's a playful yet refined twist on the classic British comfort food, the chicken pie. The chicken tikka filling brings together aromatic spices, tender chicken, and rich, flavours, while the wild berry chutney adds a delightful contrast with its sweet and tangy notes. It’s a fusion of British and Indian flavours that’s both comforting and exciting.

Another one is the Nori & Spice Cured Scottish Salmon served with a delicate white coconut moilee and sea vegetables. The balance of flavours, from the richness of the salmon to the subtle warmth of the coconut sauce, really makes this dish stand out. For a vegan alternative, I’ve created a Jackfruit Kofta with the same white coconut moilee, offering a unique and satisfying option for those seeking plant-based dishes.

For dessert, the Chocolate Bombe is a decadent, visually stunning dish. The bombe is filled with an indulgent mousse and jelly, then a hot chocolate sauce is poured all over.”

AW: “I’m Andrew Wong, I was born and brought up in London, and I’ve been immersed in the world of restaurants since my childhood. My grandfather, who moved to London as a Chinese refugee, owned a restaurant in Chinatown, and my father was the first Chinese publican in the UK. Back in 1985, my parents opened a Cantonese restaurant in Pimlico, and it’s now the location of my restaurant, A. Wong.”

AW: “Britain’s cosmopolitan nature is what sets it apart from the rest of the world. British food is about celebrating not only a diversity of incredible ingredients but also an unrivalled diversity of cultures, craft and cuisines.”

AW: “Our menu is an exploration into China’s five flavours; sweet, salty, sour, spicy, and bitter. We have tried to encapsulate these flavours together with varying textures over the menu, to give everyone a little insight into life and complexity of an Imperial banquet.”