An Insider’s Guide to St. Ives

Author

Cat Sarsfield

Photography

Lucy Laucht

5 min read

A turquoise cove surrounded by steep, grassy cliffs under a clear sky, with rocky terrain leading down to the water.

Sunny St Ives is known for its surf, art and sand – but there’s so much more to this town that meets the surface.

St Ives has a reputation problem – not because it isn't wonderful, but because most people only ever see a fraction of it. They arrive by train or crawl in by car, funnel down to the harbour, queue for a pasty then leave sunburned and slightly disappointed. The magic of St Ives, the real stuff, requires a little more commitment.  

This is the route I offer every friend who comes to stay. It begins not in the town itself but five miles west along the coast, at a pub in the ancient village of Zennor, where you lace up your boots and earn your arrival on foot via the South West Coast Path. By the time Porthmeor Beach appears below you after three or four hours of clifftop walking, you're ready to receive the town properly. 

What follows is St Ives at its best – independent, creative and most importantly, unhurried. The galleries and studios that have drawn artists here for over a century. The wine bars and trattorias run by people who moved here because they fell in love with the light. Spaces designed with intention and filled with objects designed to be held onto. This is the St Ives that exists beyond the cream tea and the car park. Come in ready to linger.

Things to do in St Ives

1. The Tinners Arms to Porthmeor Beach

I’d implore you to start your journey into St Ives not by train, or car, but by foot. Friends and I have made the Tinners a typical start-point for many an adventure in either direction. You’ll begin here too early for a drink, but don’t worry – you can park your car and get a taxi back for a pint of delicious and well-deserved local ale. From here, the South West coast path takes you straight across to Porthmeor Beach across windswept clifftops. Granted it’s 3-4 hour walk, but on a sun-soaked, blue-sky and windless day, it’s pure magic.

Zennor, Saint Ives TR26 3BY

tinnersarms.com

2. Penwith Gallery

Set behind Porthmeor Beach and the iconic Porthmeor Studios – where artists battle for space to get that perfect west coast light – sits Penwith Gallery, where Cornish sculpture and art become friendly amongst three galleries in a former pilchard packing factory. Home of the Penwith Society of Arts, which was founded by notable Cornwall-dwelling artists Barbara Hepworth and Bernard Leach in 1949, it exhibits hyper-local artists and sculptors all year round.

Back Rd E, Saint Ives TR26 1NL

penwithgallery.com

3. St Eia

Booking a table at this beloved wine bar and restaurant in the summer months is crucial, with its wine-lined walls, Yves Klein blue accent interiors and small but impeccably formed menu. Opened by Ellie Vening (former events manager at Quo Vadis) and Mark Quick (former wine buyer at Hawksmoor), St Eia is one of the very best St Ives restaurants and serves up seasonal plates of local seafood, meat and perfectly matched wines. The Coombeshead mangalitsa sausage and brothy beans with salsa verde is a staple for good reason; as is their spider crab on soda bread toast. But my favourite thing about St Eia is the hospitality – the team truly knows how to make you feel good, whether it’s suggesting a surprising glass of chilled red, or edging you towards the soft-centered cookie, which is heaven to end a meal on.

The Digey, Saint Ives TR26 1HR

steiawines.com

4. Barbara Hepworth Museum

Of course Tate St Ives is a massive draw and plays host to incredible Cornish artists – always worth a visit – but there's something about revisiting Barbara's home, studio and garden that really expresses the creative undercurrent of St Ives. More of a pilgrimage than a museum, there's an intimacy here that a gallery can't replicate. One of the best things to do in St Ives, here you are stepping into the life of one of Britain's greatest sculptors – the cluttered workbenches, the tools left as if she might return, the garden she designed herself, punctuated by her bronze sculptures sitting amongst the overgrown greenery as naturally as boulders.

Barnoon Hill, Saint Ives TR26 1AD

5. Palais Provisions

Just across the road from Barbara Hepworth is Palais Provisions, a St Ives shop filled with delicious fare like fig-leaf infused ice cream, mini martinis, Universal Works merch, as well as delightfully wonky glassware and ceramics. After you’ve polished off a scoop or two (the brown bread ice cream is essential), head upstairs to browse more hand-crafted objects and furniture.

2 Barnoon Hill, Saint Ives TR26 1AD

palaisprovisions.com

6. Romano’s, Carbis Bay

Tucked behind the picture-perfect beach of Carbis Bay – all white sand and turquoise seas – sits Romano’s, a neighbourhood trattoria serving up sandwiches, pastries, wine and for three nights a week, brilliant Italian dinners. Perhaps a day of roaming around has you hungry for an epic panino, piled high with cured meats, premium cheese and homemade pesto. Sip a spritz as the sun goes down and stay for dinner – where Roman pastas and Milanese risottos sit alongside hearty Porthilly oysters and buttery hand-dived scallops.

2 Longstone Hill, Carbis Bay, Saint Ives TR26 2SX

instagram.com/romanos_stives

7. Kiln Sauna 

Socialising in the sauna is a way of life down here, and no one does it better than Kiln. A business built by interior designer Kathryn Tyler and architect Gus Thatcher, their latest outpost continues their emphasis on designing in continuance with the landscape and not against it. Perched above the curve of St Ives’ beach, Porthmeor, its scorched black amphitheatre structures and native coastal flora create a perfect environment to sink into the heat. Their signature wide-reaching windows looking out to sea offers a certain kind of beach television – sit, sweat and watch the surfers cruise on the sun-dappled water ahead.

2 Longstone Hill, Carbis Bay, Saint Ives TR26 2SX

instagram.com/kilnsauna

8. Leach Pottery

Many might forget to stop off at the iconic Leach Pottery as it’s just out of town – but for me, it’s the first place I pull into. A visit always begins at the museum, a walking tour of the pottery’s storied past. Walk through the first room showing ceramics from over the decades and into the still-used workshop, where you can take a seat in front of an old television playing black-and-white videos of potters past throwing clay, pulling handles and perfecting their craft. Just beyond there’s space to get your hands dirty – that is, picking up a piece of clay and hand-building just for fun. You’ll end up at the shop, where you are bound to find at least five pieces you’ll need to take home, from Leach’s Standard Ware collection to individual makers’ own wonderfully idiosyncratic designs.

Higher Stennack, Saint Ives TR26 2HE

leachpottery.com

A hand pours rosé wine into a glass on a white table set with plates of pasta, salad, wine glasses, and a vase with red flowers.

St. Eia, Saint Ives

A coastal town with sandy beaches, turquoise water, and distant hills under a hazy sky. Out-of-focus plants frame the foreground.

Porthminster Beach

A narrow stone alleyway leads to the entrance of a small art gallery named Fountain Gallery. The building has stone walls, a shingled upper façade, and a potted plant by the door under a clear sky.

Penwith Gallery, Saint Ives

A metal cup with a scoop of ice cream and a waffle sits on a white plate by a window. A small spoon and fork rest on the plate.

Palais Provisions, Saint Ives

A smooth, oval-shaped abstract sculpture with a hollow centre stands on a stone plinth, surrounded by lush greenery and flowering plants in a garden.

Barbara Hepworth Museum, Saint Ives

Clothing in neutral tones hangs on a rail against a textured white wall; a bench with cushions and a small table with decor items sit nearby, with soft natural light illuminating the scene.
A narrow cobbled street winds uphill between old stone buildings, with plants and flowers decorating the fronts. A blue sky and a hanging sign are visible, suggesting a quaint, historic village setting.

Bunkers Hill, Saint Ives

Three people relax in a round hot tub overlooking the sea and beach at sunset, with gentle waves and distant cliffs visible under a clear sky.

Kiln Sauna, Saint Ives

Small outdoor café with wicker baskets of produce, a chalkboard menu, wooden tables and chairs, and a green shopfront sign reading Romanos. Bottles and jars are visible in the window display.

Romano's, Carbis Bay, Saint Ives

A person grates cheese over pasta at a table set with various dishes, a glass of wine, and cutlery. The scene suggests a freshly prepared meal in a cosy dining setting.

Visit St Ives on the Britannic Explorer

See Britain through new eyes aboard the first ever luxury sleeper train in England and Wales: the Britannic Explorer. On our Cornwall route, explore the South-West in all its sand-kissed, sea-swept glory on a three-night itinerary. From your private luxury cabin, embark on a train journey like no other and visit the region’s most historic and picturesque sights, including St Ives, Penzance and Fowey.

IN THIS STORY

People relax and swim at a sandy beach surrounded by rocky cliffs and clear blue water under a sunny sky. Green hills rise in the background.

Britannic Explorer

A Belmond Train, UK

Author

Cat Sarsfield is a writer and strategist from Cornwall. She has worked with Harper's Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan, and writes a food-themed Substack newsletter called Since No One Asked.