An Insider’s Guide to Fowey

Flanked between St Catherine’s Castle and medieval turrets is Readymoney Cove – a small, sheltered, sandy gem of a beach. Surrounded by lush green trees and Cornish stone banks, its still, turquoise waters make it a perfect spot for swimming, kayaking, snorkeling and paddleboarding (or getting lost in a book). The literary ghost of Rebecca Du Maurier looms over the cove, too: you’ll see the former coach house above the beach which was once home to the author for a few years during the Second World War.

Fowey PL23 1JH

Tucked into the lower reaches of town near the waterfront, Pintxo does one thing and does it brilliantly: Basque-style pintxos, ready to eat with a txakoli spritz or a cold Estrella. Think patatas bravas loaded with garlicky aioli, crab piled onto pillowy bread, pink prawns and warm chorizo oozing with chilli oil.

38 Esplanade, Fowey PL23 1HZ

pintxofowey.co.uk

The pizzas at Bufala – Pintxo’s sister neighbourhood pizzeria and one of the very best Fowey restaurants – are wood-fired and properly made, with good sourdough bases that char at the edges and toppings that don't overcrowd. Veg-topped, bursting burratas and fresh tomato salads are a welcome accompaniment to a slice or five on a warm evening overlooking the boats on the water.

1 Lostwithiel St, Fowey PL23 1BD

bufalafowey.co.uk

Once an outpost of the Jolene restaurant group when their Fowey restaurant Fitzroy was still up and running, North Street Kitchen is now run by husband-and-wife duo Hazel Friskney-Bryer and ex-Fitzroy head chef Ethan Friskney-Bryer. A former boat shed with views across the Fowey estuary, North Street Kitchen naturally favours seafood-forward small plates, where local catches are transformed into delicate, moreish dishes. It's a constantly changing menu, but expect aromatic fish soups, blistered sardines, butter-drenched turbot and flakey Newlyn hake, all served alongside an excellent rotation of natural wines.

55 North St, Fowey PL23 1DB

The pint-sized village of Polruan sits pretty just across the estuary from Fowey. Whilst you could take a short Polruan ferry ride straight into its postcard-perfect harbour, a more winding and meandering route is to set sail to Bodinnick first – a tranquil fishing village on the east bank of the River Fowey. As you approach, you'll notice Ferryside, once a shipwright's workshop in the 19th century, later converted into a Grade II listed house, and home to novelist Daphne du Maurier. From here you can make your way onto the famous Hall Walk – a beautiful ramble from Bodinnick to Polruan – where you'll traverse woodlands and peer over still creeks over about two and a half hours. After this scenic Cornwall coastal walk, you can celebrate your ambulatory triumph in charming Polruan, overlooking Fowey harbour.

Polruan, Fowey PL23 1PZ

Charlie Walters opened Narla with a clear point of view: a menu rooted in the best of the south-west's larder. Plated up with precision, expect sculptural dishes built around day-boat fish, aged local meat and whatever the kitchen is most excited about that week. Their generous Sunday roasts are legendary, and perfect in those slightly cooler months.

19 Fore St, Fowey PL23 1AH

narlarestaurant.co.uk

If you're jonesing for a day trip out of Fowey, the famed Jamaica Inn is only a half-an-hour drive away, up onto the exposed granite spine of Bodmin Moor. Du Maurier immortalised it in her 1936 novel of the same name – a story of smugglers, secrets and fog-thickened nights on the moor – and the inn trades cheerfully on that legacy. Order a pie and a pint, browse the small museum dedicated to du Maurier's life and work, and let the beauty of the moor do the rest.

Bolventor, Launceston PL15 7TS

jamaicainn.co.uk

The lush green estate that plays host to Fowey Hall Hotel sits high above the town, which feels both apt and a little theatrical – arriving here is an occasion in and of itself. The Victorian manor house was said to have inspired Kenneth Grahame's Toad Hall in his 1908 novel The Wind in the Willows, and it's easy to see why: all grand turrets and tumbling ivy. Inside, the hotel manages the rare trick of being elegantly designed and feeling genuinely welcoming at the same time, with open fires, wood-panelled rooms and a walled garden that begs a long afternoon with a bottle of something cold.

Hall Hotel, Hanson Dr, Fowey PL23 1ET

luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk